I just wanted you to know that I was able to over winter my Rosemary this past winter! It’s on the south side of the house, was mulched, and although there’s not much new growth yet, it is still alive!
Good for you! As a matter of fact, I have now gotten several reports locally about Rosemary over wintering outside this past winter. We can all thank the mild winter weather for that one!
Those maple seeds are falling everywhere! Will my pre emergent herbicides stop them from growing?
Nope, sorry. Those maple samaras are cocked and ready to grow as soon as they land and get some moisture. And that means in gutters, landscape beds, lawns, driveways, cracks and crevices – wherever they can hangout and get some moisture! Spot treat with Roundup / Kleenup / Killzall in open areas, hand pull, collect seeds before they grow, and in the lawn, they cannot exist under normal mowing heights and should die out after 2-3 mowings. Otherwise, spot treat with a lawn broadleaf weed killer.
My spring flowering bulbs have finished blooming. Anything I should do for them at this stage?
As the spring flowering bulbs flowers begin to fade, if you have time, feel free to deadhead those spent flowers, but leave that foliage alone! For daffodils, just leave them be. If you haven’t fed your bulbs this spring (best to feed before they flower or in the fall) feel free to feed now as well (Espoma’s Bulb Tone), but leave their foliage alone. If a few weeks are popping up where they’re growing, hand weed, spot treat with Roundup if you can, even apply Preen to help stop weed seeds from growing, but leave the bulb’s foliage alone. By the way, did I mention leaving the bulb’s It’s best to let them stay green and grow as long as you canJfoliage alone? (grow until they begin to turn yellow), for new flowers to appear next year. They need a minimum of 6 weeks or more of just good green foliage after they flower, before you can consider cutting them back. And by all means, do not braid their foliage or bend them over and rubber band them together. Over time, these non-recommended practices will take their toll on the bulbs flowering abilities. By the way, once the foliage has yellowed, that’s the perfect time to dig, divide and transplant those spring bulbs if needed.
I got an email from our lawn service saying grubs come out late spring. I thought it was summer. Which is it?
Well, remember there are many different species of beetles / grubs all which emerge at different times and is weather pending. So we can get some species coming out late spring and right on into the summer. By applying a grub preventer in June, you cover the extended period of time the assorted beetles will be laying their eggs thru the summer.
What is eating all the holes in the leaves of my roses?
Great question when you see rose leaves having either window pane type holes or complete holes in the leaves, but no bugs to be seen. Well, the reason the bugs aren’t being seen, is 1.) They’re very small and the same color of the leaf, and 2.) They’re feeding on the undersides of the leaves! Rose Slugs – The critter is called a rose slug, yet rose slugs are not slugs at all. They’re actually in the sawfly family, and there have been different types seen, ranging from 1 to multiple generations each year. They look like very small caterpillars (at the early stages are very hard to see), and typically feed on the underside of the leaves, causing the window pane effect from the younger rose slug larvae, to large leaf holes to total leaf skeletonization as the larva mature.
Control for Rose Slugs: 1.) Hand smashing the rose slugs as you can find them on the undersides of the leaves (look early morning). 2.) Repeated foliar sprays as needed, using Insecticidal Soaps or Horticultural Oils, but making sure to spray the undersides of the leaves where the rose slugs are feeding, not the tops of the leaves. 3.) Apply a systemic insecticide such as Bayer’s 3 in 1 Rose Care or Bonide’s (or Bayer’s) Tree and Shrub Insect Control, where the insecticide is taken up inside the plant and the sawfly larvae are killed as they feed on the leaves. Try to apply the systemic before damages are seen (at plant bud break), but can be applied later. Note: The foliar sprays are usually most effective for most immediate control, but a combination of systemic and foliar sprays work quite nicely. Remember, there may be several generations of the rose slug, so be persistent with the methods of control as you see the damages occur. And although the damages certainly make the rose plant’s leaves look bad, it rarely affects the overall health of the plant, especially those Knock Outs. They take a rose slug lickin’, but keep on tickin’.
‘Salad Bowl Add-Ons’. A plain old lettuce salad can be pretty boring. But in today’s produce areas, you’ll find bags of mixed greens to add a little extra something to your lettuce salad. And typically, these bags aren’t cheap. Well guess what? You can most of these greens, and you can do it in a pot on your own back porch! It’s really simple to do. Here’s how:
1.) Get yourself 2 or 3, 12-14 inch shallow containers, always making sure they have good drainage. Plastic bowls, ½ bushel baskets, anything close will do just fine.
2.) Fill your containers with our container mix we’ve been talking about – soil-less potting mix, a little Osmocote for a gradual feeding, and some Soil Moist to help cut down on our watering. And now you’re ready to plant!
3.) So what do you put in your salad bowl add-ons containers? Try growing Upland cress, dill, radicchio, arugula, basil, parsley, chives, mixed greens, mustard greens, and of course, my favorite, cilantro. Any of these greens which can be added to a salad bowl of lettuce will work.
4.) Plant your add-ons closer than you would normally, keeping in mind you’ll be harvesting these on a regular basis. Many of your plants are “cut and come agains”, which means as your remove or harvest the young leaves, more will re-grow later. So by planting several containers, you can rotate your harvesting from basket to basket.
5.) Water your plants in well, and water as needed throughout the spring season. Come June, many of these greens will begin to poop out, and at that time, your can remove the greens, and replant these planters with your favorite herbs. Then you’ll have fresh herbs to harvest, all summer long.
As most of these greens do best during cooler temperatures, ‘salad bowl add-ons’ can also be planted in August for late summer and fall harvests. Best crops may be achieved by fall plantings!
There are so many selections of vegetables available today on the market that it definitely can be very confusing as to which ones to plant. Obviously I can’t grow them all, but based on personal experience and other veggie gardeners recommendations here are a few favorites that you may want to try (in ground or in containers).
Tomatoes
-Fourth of July / totally impressed with the production of this compact indeterminate tomato, salad size fruit, 48 days to ripen, saw no disease, produced all year.
-Husker Red Cherry / squatty compact grower, heavy producer of larger cherry tomatoes
-Husker Red / squatty plant, medium sized tomato, good flavor and great in containers
-JetStar – Celebrity –Rutgers / tough, durable, good producing all purpose medium sized tomatoes, these are old timers that continue to stay on the favorite’s list.
-Sweet 100 / oldie but goodie sweet cherry tomato, produces more than you can eat, vigorous viner so give it room to grow
-Brandywine and Cherokee Purple / probably two most popular heirlooms planted
-Beefsteak / solid, meaty, good size tasty tomato – one slice covers the slice of bread
-Whopper / gets bigger than beefsteak!
-Sugary and SunSugar / newer cherry tomatoes extremely sweet!
(So many more but can’t list them all!)
Peppers
-Bhut Jolokia / 1,000,000 Scoville units, fragrant and great flavor (one of world’s hottest)
-Cajun Belle / miniature bell pepper turns red early, sweet flavor with a Cajun kick!
-Carmen / heavy producing long Italian pepper, very sweet, turns red early, great flavor!
-Sweet Banana / these are great for stuffing, sweet and flavorful
-Uba Tuba ‘Christmas Bell’ / good sweet flavor, light heat, shaped like bells, also a good ornamental
(Again, so many more but can’t list them all!)
Of course, don’t forget about growing ‘Horseradish’ in containers (use a pot 18 x 15-18 inches). Great foliage, stays controlled, and tons of roots after two years. Rhubarb does great in containers as well and of course one of my favorite groups of plants to grow in containers, herbs! Nothing like having fresh herbs right at your fingertips, and growing in containers is one of the easiest ways to do it!
The frost that Cincinnati experienced the second week of April has caused some of the foliage on my macrophylla hydrangeas to turn brown or black. I see similar foliage damage to some new trees that I planted last year, as well as a mature sweet bay magnolia tree. Is this damage only temporary or should I be concerned?
Not a good answer, but only time will tell. Don’t do anything at this stage – good chance we’ll have more frosts. In 2-3 weeks, then we can evaluate and determine what needs to be done. Probably temporary foliar damages – most trees and shrubs have the ability to re-leaf. Some may need a little tip pruning, especially the hydrangeas. But just wait and see, then react with pruning if needed in a couple weeks.
I would love to grow mint, but understand they can be very invasive. How invasive, and do you have suggestions where to grow them?
Very invasive; just ask herbal expert Rita Heikenfeld! For growing mint, I suggest either planting them in their own separate garden, in a garden area that has a deep in ground barrier (watch for them to grow over the barrier), or my favorite way, which would be in containers. Keeps them contained, easy to grow, and will overwinter in the pots right outside.
There is a substance called ‘nepetalactone’ which seems to have a hallucinogenic effect on cats. From what I’ve read, it’s similar to something in a female cats urine, and may explain why unneutered males may react more than neutered and females (although both of ours go nuts-oh!). Looks like lions, pumas and leopards like it too, but not every cat “gets off” on it. Kittens usually don’t react to it until they’re older, and there is a percentage of cats that never react to it. Giving your cat a buzz from this stuff is harmless, and non-addictive, so you’re not creating a drug addict cat.
We planted a couple shrubs over the weekend but didn’t water due to frost possibilities. Should I hold off until we get past the frosts?
Nope! Your watering schedule for newly planted trees and shrubs stays the same no matter what the frost predictions. As a matter of fact, well watered plants handle frosts better than those under drought stress. So water when finished planting, and as you normally would for newly planted plants.
I was just told to not put cut daffodils in the vase with other flowers. Is that true, and why not?
Yes it is true – cut daffodils can secrete a substance in the water which can shorten the lives of the other flowers. So when using cut daffodils, place them in a vase for a day by themselves, and then put them with other flowers, or simply keep them in a vase all their own.
Why am I seeing so many weeds in my beds so early this year?
Those are winter annuals that started growing last fall from seed. Henbit, chickweed and hairy bittercress; the goal for control – get rid of them before they flower and set seed. Simply pull them out. Once they flower and seed, they are set to start growing again next fall. If that’s the case, next fall, apply a pre emergent herbicide in those beds to help stop the seeds from growing in the fall.
The rains are killing me trying to spray my fruit trees! Any suggestions?
Stick with it. We know those early applications are very important especially with the fungicides, so watch the weather, and get your sprays done between showers, hopefully allowing enough time for the product to be rain-fast (says how long on the label).
A friend has a wooden swing and carpenter bees are flying around it. What can they spray to kill the bees and if nests in the wood to get rid of the eggs also?
Unless they’re doing serious damages to the wood, I let them bee. The male doesn’t have a stinger and can’t sting you, and the female is not aggressive and usually won’t sting unless you tried to pick her up. Plus, she can be a good pollinator. But if they are causing structural damages in the wood or ‘beeing’ a real nuisance, a simple swat with a tennis racket takes care of them. And you can run a wire into the hole in the wood and kill any bee in the hole as well as the larvae. If sprays are needed, try dusting the opening of the hole with an insecticide listed for wasp/ bees. But do that as a last resort. By the way, using ‘Liquid Nail’ has been found to be the best filler for carpenter bee holes. Larvae / adult bees in the holes cannot chew threw the filler and get out of the hole / or back in.
I have a good amount of finely ground leaves from fall and they haven’t broken down much. Can they be tilled into the garden this spring?
I would wait. For now, use a good compost, rotted manure, coir, etc. Light amendments in the spring and heavier in the fall. BUT, I would use the leaves as a topdressing / mulch after you get the garden planted. Those and grass clippings (not sprayed with herbicides) are great for mulching the garden. This fall, then you can till them into the garden. Keep doing that, and you’ll eventually have some pretty nice soil in the garden!
My liriope looked great all winter, but now its browning and flattening out. What happened and what do I do?
Actually can be pretty common with liriope – as the spring weather warms, it browns and flattens out just before the new growth appears. So your goal is to remove all the old foliage just before it starts to re-grow. If it already has started re-growing, just cut the old foliage above the new growth, leaving the new growth alone. By the way, make sure you have removed the dead grass on the ornamental grasses as well as perennials. These warm temperatures have everything coming along quicker than usual!
I keep having chickweed growing in my beds in the spring. How do I get rid of it?
Chickweed is a winter annual – actually started growing last fall. In early spring they continue to grow, flower, set and drop seeds, and die. So physical removal before they flower and seed is the first step. Then applying a pre emergent herbicide to stop the seeds from growing in September, will help stop remaining seeds from coming up. By the way, chickweed is highly nutritious – more nutritious than most greens, so you know what I say – if you can’t beat ‘em, eat ‘em! (By the way, you’ll see henbit, chickweed, purple deadnettle and hairy bittercress all coming up now – winter annuals – physical removal works great.)
I can never remember when to prune plants. Don’t you have a golden rule for that?
I do – generally speaking, as there are exceptions to the rule, if the plant flowers in the spring, prune it after it finished flowering as it flowers on last years growth. If it flowers in the summer, prune it in the spring as it flowers on new growth. For evergreens like yews, boxwood, junipers, Chamaecyparis, hollies, etc, prune those plants before they start to grow in the spring.
I noticed these swollen black lumps on the branches of my cherry tree. What is it and what can I do for the tree?
This is called Black Knot – an airborne disease that only affects plants in the Prunus genus – namely cherries and plums, fruiting and ornamental. The infected area eventually girdles the branch and it dies. If you notice one or two of these knots on the branches, prune them out about 6-12 inches below the knot and burn or destroy those pieces. Fungicidal sprays are usually not that effective in helping control it (spring multiple sprays). And if your tree is covered with it, I’d suggest you cut it down.
I have mostly clay and very little soil. I read in the paper last week that I should add gypsum, washed river sand, and organic matter to the garden and mix it all up well. What do you recommend?
Without getting into scientific details about soils, soil structures, and the many benefits of clay soils, let me just say this. If you use the wrong type of sand and the wrong ratio, you will create concrete. And as for the gypsum, let’s just say don’t use it unless a soil test suggests that you do. Not that it would harm adding it, but just don’t at this stage. The best way to improve the clay soils in our area is to continue to add organic matter – tilling it in, mixing it with the soil when we pocket plant, and as a top dressing to break down and slowly work into the soil. Over time, and yes it takes time and does not happen over night, adding organic matter will begin to increase microbial activity, earthworm activity, drainage, and over all soil structure and tilth. Organic matter is your best friend when it comes to improving clay soils.
I want to take care of our lawn without using synthetic fertilizers or weed killers. What do you suggest we use?
Going natural for lawn care products is becoming more and more popular, and you’ll find several natural products available! To stop crabgrass and other weed seeds from growing, as well as giving the lawn a nice shot of nitrogen, look at Espoma’s Weed Preventer plus Lawn Food. It’s made from Corn Gluten meal and provides pre emergent coverage as well as a 7-10% nitrogen feeding – naturally. Now, this pre emergent only lasts about 45 days so reapply as needed. Don’t need a pre emergent and just want to feed the lawn? There are plenty of natural fertilizers, including Espoma’s Lawn Food, made from Feather Meal, poultry manure and beneficial microbes, and an oldie but goodie, Milorganite, made from sewage sludge, but processed so that it’s safe for the lawn and for the vegetable garden! Milorganite also gives the lawn a nice shot of iron to help keep those grass blades good and green. And there is even an all natural ‘selective’ weed killer for the lawn – its Ortho’s Eco Sense Lawn weed killer. Spot treat weeds in the lawn and kill them with all natural ingredients! Combine these natural products with good lawn care cultural practices, and you can have a nice looking lawn, naturally. NOTE: By the way, Milorganite can be used to feed the lawn, the garden, trees and shrubs, etc, and we have found that it also has pretty good repelling action helping to keep deer away, as well as helping to keep raccoons and skunks from digging in the lawn. Naturally feed and repel critters at the same time!
Can you suggest what to use to prevent the early defoliation of knock outs (roses) by rose slug - Organically if possible?
Last year was a great (or bad depending on how you look at it) year for rose slugs destroying rose foliage. This year we’ve already had early questions about 2010 rose slug control! Well, first, there are no systemic insecticides that I am aware of that are organic, so you’ll have to attack the rose slug itself. (Bonide’s or Bayer’s Tree and Shrub Insect Control are the systemics - 3 in 1 Rose Care usually covers them, too, but always check the label.) Even with the use of systemic insecticides, many times a backup plan may be needed if the populations are high. So here are some natural ways to help suppress rose slugs on roses: -Hose them off with a strong stream of water. -Hand pick them off / smash them. -Sprays include Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew (Spinosad - certified organic), Insecticidal Soap, Neem, and Horticultural oil. (Bt does not work on rose slugs) NOTE: Be sure to spray the undersides of the leaves. Most of the time they will be under the leaves, and very hard to see when they are small. They typically feed at night but can be found in the morning. Remember there are a couple types of rose slugs and multiple generations as well. They do not look like slugs but more like a small caterpillar. They’re actually a sawfly.
Iris borers - By the way, we have also found the above mentioned systemics doing a great job helping fight against iris borers in iris! Yes, it needs to be applied this spring as the irises are beginning to grow.
I have wild onions coming up in my lawn. Besides digging them out, is there a weed killer that is safe for the lawn that will take out onions?
Digging them out is a good option (make sure you get roots and all), but there is a spray as well – Bonide’s Weed Beater Ultra. Granted it will take a couple applications, and make sure you bruise the foliage before you spray for better absorption thru their waxy foliage. The neat thing about Weed Beater Ultra – its one of the only lawn weed killers that works at colder temperatures – as low as 45 degrees, so you can go after these early weeds, earlier in the spring, and of course later in the fall. And you can reseed about 2 weeks after using it!
Last year I had bagworms galore on my evergreens. What can I do to prevent them this year?
There are no preventions for bagworms, besides making sure you’ve hand picked and destroyed any remaining bagworms still hanging on your plants. These little bags can have as many as 500 plus eggs in them, so pick and destroy before they hatch, which usually occurs late May. If they show up at that time on your plants, then spray with Bt or Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew. But not before you see the whites of their beady little baggy eyes!
When applying my Preen, do I need to put it on top of the mulch, or underneath the mulch?
That’s a great question! And the answer depends on the situation! -If its bare soil and you’re mulching for the first time, apply Preen to the soil first, then mulch. If your budget allows, a second application on top of the mulch will be helpful for weed seeds blowing into the mulch. -If you’re simply top dressing or freshening existing mulch, apply Preen before you add the new mulch. -And if you’re already mulched and ready to go, simply apply Preen to the top of the mulch. And in all cases, make sure that the Preen gets watered in! As a reminder for those of you interested in using organic or natural products in your gardens, both Preen and Espoma now have their all natural pre emergent made from Corn Gluten. It needs to be reapplied more often, but it is a natural alternative for you.
Its spring, you’re looking at the weather forecast, and it looks like there could be frost in many surrounding areas. Whether your yard receives a frost will depend on weather conditions, your location, and even more specific, whether the area is protected by the house, overhead structures, trees, or even sidewalks and driveways. Nevertheless, do be aware that when the chance of frost is there, open flowers, tender foliage, tropical plants, annuals, etc. would be most susceptible to frost damages. And how cold it gets, how long it lasts, and temperatures previous to the frost are major factors to the amount of frost damages that may be incurred. We cannot predict how much damage, if any at all, will occur, or which plants will be okay or not. Plants amaze us every year with the hardiness, as well as susceptibility to environmental factors out of our control.
Containers: For tender plants growing in containers, move inside the garage, unheated porch, or inside the home. Even under a large overhang may help protect plants in some situations. NOTE: Tender plants include annuals, vegetables (not most cold and root crops), tropical plants, plants recently purchased from a greenhouse and not ‘hardened off’, plants with new tender foliage, etc.
In Ground: For tender plants in the ground, watering the soil during the day helps hold warmth in the ground around the plants and hydrates the plants (dried out plants are more susceptible to frost damages). Covering with grow covers, light sheets ‘tented’ over the plants, using upside down pots, cardboard boxes, glass jars, milk jugs or just about any solid structure, as well as tomato cages wrapped in protective covering, etc. will help. Do not lay plastic on plants – use plastic only if you can create a greenhouse over the plants, and the plastic does not touch the plants. Be cautious laying any material directly on plants, as rain or snow could weigh down the material and cause physical damages to the plants. ‘Tenting’ is your best bet, and make sure all coverings are secured. For larger flowering trees or shrubs, or plants taller than you, generally leave them be.
Uncovering: If the daytime temperatures (after the frost night) go into the upper 40’s, be sure to uncover the plants during the day (once into the mid 40’s) and be ready to re-cover the plants should they need protection the following night.
Can’t Cover Plants: For light frosts, where you can’t cover, or it was a surprise frost, try spraying your plants, before the sun comes up, with a soft stream of cold water. This has varying results, but worth the try with light frosts to help minimize frost damage.
Whether your yard will have frost depends on each location. Watch the weather and watch the thermometer to see if the temps dip below 40 degrees (upper 30’s can have frost). Not sure what to do? When in doubt, cover or put the plants away.
Before we look at that, one note of caution please. Do not try to till the garden too early! If the soil is too wet, you’ll create clumps of soil that will not break down for the rest of the year. So don’t be too anxious to till if the soil hasn’t dried out. And if it stays wet and you’re delayed a bit, don’t forget planting greens in containers early. That’ll get you those early crops growing while you wait for the soil to dry a bit. Cole crops (planting soon) include cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, collards, spinach and lettuce, bok choy, onions, potatoes, peas, radishes, and more. Looking for early colors? Plant pansies – and yes, you can eat the flowers!
When should I treat to kill the dandelions in my lawn?
Let them flower! It’s the best early source of food for the bees! If you need to spot treat them later, do it after they finish flowering and are going into the puff-ball stage. Best time for control is mid to late fall – second is puffball stage in spring. And yes, spot treat as needed, not spraying the entire lawn. Feed the lawn when needed – spot treat for weeds when needed (and most effective time).
Now is a great time to be cleaning out those beds, raking and removing left-over dead foliage. And with the raking, you’ll typically fluff up you mulch, and be amazed at how fresh it looks after fluffing! Don’t be in any hurry to re-mulch your beds. Let the temperatures warm up, let the soils dry a bit and warm up, and then worry about re-mulching later, if needed. It’s amazing how fluffing the mulch does give it a new look, as well as showing you that you may not need to re-mulch as much as thought you were going to have to do! Now, you can re-mulch now if you want. You’ll see many landscape companies re-mulching now. But if can fluff and wait until later, that’s even better. How deep should mulch be? 1-3 inches – and as far as I’m concerned, in many areas, the less the better. Do remember to keep all mulch away from the trunks of trees (avoid the volcano mulch look!). Mulch piled up on the sides of trees will cause decay and eventual tree problems down the road. Technically, mulch around trees should look like a donut. Mulch as usual up to within a couple inches of the tree trunk, and then taper it back down to the soil level next to the trunk, but never touching the trunk. If you have trees that are mulched like that, re-do it this spring, the ‘donut way’. And if you landscape company insists on piling mulch against the sides of the trunks of your trees, ask them to change it. Your trees will be glad you did! Ps…Don’t forget to apply pre emergent herbicides either below or on top of the mulch to help stop weed seeds from growing.
I say as soon as the weather is in the 50’s and you can walk on the lawn without leaving any tracks! It’s amazing what the first mowing will do to help the lawn get off to a good start – cleans off the dead blades, picks up debris laying on the soil surface, and pulls the grass blades ‘up’. All this makes the lawn look better, and opens up the soil for quicker warming and quicker green-up. Just amazes me how lawns respond to the first season mowing! . . . . So the answer is YES!
Is there anything we can apply to our perennial beds that will kill grass and weeds without harming the good plants?
Yes! Don’t forget the pre emergent herbicides to help stop the seeds from growing. Preen and Organic Preen (Corn Gluten Meal) work nicely (read the labels for any restrictions). For those grasses and weeds that are growing, spot treat with Roundup, Kleenup or Espoma’s 4n1 Weed killer (all natural) without spraying the desirable plant’s foliage. And for the weedy grasses only, try Fertilome’s ‘Over the Top’ or Bonide’s ‘Grass Beater’ which can be sprayed over the top of many desirable plants without harming them (again read the label before using).
Although I see many gardeners out already cutting back roses, my experiences along with the advice from the rose doctor himself, Dr. Pottschmidt, have been to wait until late March to early to mid April. Sure they may have already started to leaf out, but just wait. Pruning encourages new growth, and pruning a bit later, gets you closer to warmer weather and less chance of freeze damages to that new foliage.
Believe it or not the hummers are on their way! Now, you may think I’m crazy saying this, but its time to get your hummingbird feeders cleaned and ready to go. And if you don’t have any hummingbird feeders, then time to purchase a few and be ready to feed them! That’s right – the ruby throated hummingbirds are already working their way north, and right now, have entered southern Georgia, Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas, and Florida, and could be arriving in our area in about 3 weeks, weather pending. Now, you can track their migration north, by going to www.hummingbirds.net/map. The map will show you exactly where they are now, so you’ll get a better feel for how soon they’ll be here!
If you don’t have a hummingbird feeder, there are definitely many for you to choose from – basic hummer feeders to multiple feeding stations to fancy glass globe feeders. But they all work. And the common factor between all of them is that they hold liquid hummingbird food, and the feeding stations are usually red, or a bright color, which attracts hummers. As for the hummingbird food, you’ll find several available, from instant nectar mixed with water, to ready to use nectar. You can also make your own, using 4 parts water to one part table sugar (thanks Nature Girl – WildBirdCenter). And do not use red food coloring to color it red! Research has shown hummingbirds cannot properly digest food coloring – and the red coloring isn’t necessarily needed. If you find red colored nectar, make sure its colored using fruit and vegetable coloring. So, whether you watch the migration map or just want to be ready for those early hummingbird scouts, get those hummingbird feeders filled and hung up in about 3 weeks. We’ll help keep you posted as we get closer to their arrival. By the way, feeding the hummers with the feeders is one way to attract them to your yard – planting flowers that hummers enjoy is another! Using the two together really keeps the hummers happy. Stop by our garden stores and let our garden pros show you plants that the hummingbirds will love for you to be planting in your landscape!
Every year my Columbine get leaf miners. What can I do to get rid of it?
This is a very common problem with Columbine and really is more aesthetic than a problem to the plant. You can try a systemic like Bonide’s or Bayer’s Tree and Shrub Insect Control (apply early spring), but many folks will simply cut off the infested foliage after the plants are finished flowering, and let them re-grow the rest of the season.
We’re getting there! I guess you could start right away, but I like to get closer to when the weeds start to germinate so the pre emergent lasts longer into the season. And how long they last depends on the type of pre emergent you apply, so please read the label before applications. Remember, there are pre emergent herbicides for the lawn, for the landscape / flower beds / garden, and some that can be used for both situations. So again make sure you have right product for the right situation. And, there are synthetic pre emergent herbicides, and there are natural pre emergent herbicides (corn gluten meal). By the way, if you’re not sure what we’re talking about, pre emergent herbicides help to stop weed seeds from growing, which helps you keep unwanted weeds under control. They don’t kill existing weeds, just goes after the seeds. So if your sowing grass seed this spring, make sure you use a pre emergent that allows the grass seed to grow but not the weeds. If you’re planting flower or vegetable seeds, they must be up and growing before you apply your pre emergent. Again, read the labels be fore applications. One last point – timing of the applications – get your pre emergent in place before the weed seeds start to germinate. 50-55 degrees consistently (air and soil temps) is when they start to pop. Watch the forsythia. When they start to bloom, the time is right for some of the weed seeds to start to grow.
Some of my over-wintering container plants in the garage are starting to bud. What should I do?
Move them outside at this stage to let them come back to life just as the ones outside are doing. Garages will be getting too warm as we go along for plants to stay dormant and will pop out early. If the weather makes a sudden change to really cold, you may have to move them back in overnight or as needed. But get them outside to come along as the weather dictates.
Is St. Patrick’s Day a signal for planting potatoes?
Can be! The timing is usually right around St. Patty’s Day – the soil needs to be around 45 degrees or higher and not soggy wet. If that’s what we have by then, go for it. If not, wait until the conditions are right. By the way, there are other ways to grow potatoes besides in the ground – on top of the ground mounded in straw and compost, in chicken wire cages, stacked tires, raised beds, large pots, laundry baskets (drain holes in bottom), and even the Potato Bags that have Velcro pockets on the sides so you can reach inside, grab a ‘tater’ and close it back up! St. Patty’s day usually signals time for planting peas, onions, and other cold crops (weather / soil condition pending).
Yes, it's true. You do not have to be Irish to wear green on St. Patrick's Day, and you definitely don't need a green thumb or Leprechaun to grow Shamrocks indoors! "Most" shamrocks sold in garden stores and florists are a member of the Oxalis family, of which there are over 300 species. Some have green leaves, some maroon; some grow from bulbs some from tubers, and most fold their leaves at night and open during the day. White clover, black medic, hop clover, and four leaf clovers have also been portrayed as shamrocks, but the true Irish shamrock is Trifolium dubium, which is a yellow flowering clover, is not easy to grow indoors - thus it's the Oxalis plants, which are fairly easy to grow indoors, that's sold instead for your potted shamrock. Growing Shamrocks Indoors:
-All shamrocks need lots of light for growing and flowering indoors. Be careful of the hot afternoon sun during the summer. Using artificial lighting? Keep it on for at least 12 hours each day.
-Keep your shamrocks evenly moist. They love moist yet well drained soils. Let it dry ever so lightly between watering.
-They prefer cooler temperatures, especially during the flowering times. Try for the low 70's during the day, and 55-65 degrees at night. Warmer temperatures will encourage dormancy quicker.
-Feed shamrocks every 2-3 weeks during the flowering and growing times. Once flowering has stopped and growth slowed, cut back to once a month. Water soluble fertilizers work best.
-Shamrocks can remain in the same pot for several years. If repotting is needed, do this at the end of the dormancy period. Division can occur at this time as well. -Snip off spent flowers stem and all as well as yellowed leaves. An occasional gentle shower in the sink will help clean dust off the leaves.
-Most (not all) shamrocks will go thru a dormancy period(s). The leaves will yellow, the plant gets a tired look, and just shuts down. Stop watering, remove dead foliage, and place pot in a cool dark area. When new leaves begin to appear, bring it back out and start the growing cycle all over again.
Shamrock Problems:
Spots on leaves - usually water spots. Shamrocks have very few diseases or pest problems.
Plants wilt - Root system too dry for too long. Soggy wet roots or being too cold will also cause wilting.
Yellow Leaves - Too much water. Plants getting too tall and thin - Not enough light, or temps too warm.
No Blooms - Plants too young, not enough light, or just too tired and need a rest period. (Rest periods may last for a couple months.)
Can you tell me your golden rule of pruning flowering plants again? I always get that confused
Sure! As a general rule of thumb, for the interest of the flower, prune spring flowering trees and shrubs after they finish flowering (yes, there are exceptions to the rule, including fruit trees, etc). If the plants flower in the summer (after June 1), prune in the spring. If you are not concerned about the flowers on spring flowering plants, they can be pruned early spring before they leaf out.
When is the best time to cut back my Japanese yews and Boxwood?
Do your pruning before they leaf out in the spring, and don’t be too anxious to do it while it’s really cold. After they put out the first flush of new growth, and that ‘hardens off’, then feel free to come back with a light second pruning by hand to even-up and longer branches as needed.
You can, but personally, I would wait a bit longer. Crabgrass and other spring germinating weed seeds start to think about germinating when the air and soil temperatures reach 50-55 degrees consistently. According to my soil thermometer, the soil is at 41 degrees. So you have time. And if you’re using pre emergent herbicides that last 45-90 days, I’d wait a bit just so they’ll last longer into the season before I’ll need to re-apply.
I want to grow some of my annuals from seed this year. Have any suggestions how to get started?
Do I! Here are a few tips to help you along: Make sure you have the right seed starting supplies. Top grade potting mix or seed starting mix. Don’t go cheap here – use the good stuff for better results. And remember to pre-moisten your seed starting mix before you plant the seeds. -You’ll need something to grow them in – small clay or plastic pots, peat pots, Cow pots, or seed trays all work well. Make sure they have good drainage. -A misting bottle works great for watering the new seedlings – not so invasive and east to control the water flow. Also used when applying water soluble fertilizers.
-Regular florescent lights work just fine for growing seedlings indoors (use one warm and one cool). Make sure you keep the lights within 3-6 inches of the tops of the seedlings, and keep the lights on for at least 12-16 hours each day. -And here’s an important tool for starting seeds indoors – a small fan placed away from the plants. Very important to keep the air moving around the plants to help reduce disease, rotting, and it actually helps promote stockier plants. -And make sure you don’t start your seeds too early. Check the seed packs to see how long it takes from germination to planting outdoors. Count backwards from our frost free date (May 15 or so) and that’s when you start the seeds indoors. For example, tomatoes take about 6-8 weeks, and that means starting the seeds mid to late March. Always better to start a bit late rather than too early.
Not only are bananas really good for you, they're really good for the soil and your plants!
Not only are they one of the best sources of instant and sustained energy, bananas can also help over come or prevent a substantial number of illnesses and conditions. They help regulate high blood pressure, naturally energize the brain, they're a great colon cleanser, help take the edge off periods of depression, help curb heartburn, morning sickness and sometimes good for hangovers, and believe it or not, have been a help for some smokers to kick their smoking habit.
So,when you're finished eating your banana, don't throw out the peel!
You see, the banana benefits just keep going as banana peels are good for your soil and for your plants! By adding banana peels back to the soil, they break down, add organic matter back to the soil, and also add nutrients such as potash and phosphorus. Simply cut up your peels in thin slices and toss them in the garden, or in the landscape mulch, or if you want, actually chop them into the soil. And if you have houseplants, take the peels and slide them down between the soil and the side of the pot.
That way you add organic matter to your houseplants soil, and give them a light boost of banana peel nutrients. As they break down, banana peels don't smell, and don't attract bugs, so they're safe to use with your plants indoors. So, when someone says an apple a day keeps the doctor away, remind them that a banana a day has about 4 times the effect -both for you and for your plants!
Can you tell me your golden rule of pruning flowering plants again? I always get that confused.
Sure! As a general rule of thumb, for the interest of the flower, prune spring flowering trees and shrubs after they finish flowering (yes, there are exceptions to the rule, including fruit trees, etc). If the plants flower in the summer (after June 1), prune in the spring. If you are not concerned about the flowers on spring flowering plants, they can be pruned early spring before they leaf out.
When is the best time to cut back my Japanese yews and Boxwood?
Do your pruning before they leaf out in the spring, and don’t be too anxious to do it while its really cold. After they put out the first flush of new growth, and that ‘hardens off’, then feel free to come back with a light second pruning by hand to even-up and longer branches as needed.
I see my spring bulbs starting to pop up. When is the best time to feed spring bulbs?
There have always been different opinions on this, but here is ours – the best time to feed with bulb food is just as they are coming up (early spring), the second being in the fall, and last being after they finish flowering.
I have several dead spots in my lawn. How do I go about fixing them? Although late summer / early fall seeding is best, we can’t wait for then! So you’ll need to dormant or spring seed (do it now or in a few weeks). Be sure to rake out all the dead debris from the areas, then seed those areas with your grass seed (chose a seed mix or blend that matches or is compatible to your existing lawn). Be sure to throw some seed into the surrounding grass as well. Then put down either a starter fertilizer, or if a pre emergent herbicide is needed, be sure to use that is specially formulated for newly seeded lawns. All other pre emergent herbicides will stop grass seed from growing. Be sure to water the seed / new grass as needed thru the spring season and into the summer as well. By the way, for the turf type tall fescue lawns, we now have the NEW TLC Fescue Blend, with Titan Limited, Titan Rx and Rendition Rx – all rhizoming tall fescues!
RECOMMENDED BOOKS – Every now and then, someone will ask what books we recommend or use for our own reference materials. And fortunately we have industry magazines, emails, bulletins, manuals, etc that are available for our use. But, there are many great books available for anyone to use, not only for good reading, but for use as a reference. Now, we all have our preferences, but I thought I’d list a ‘few’ you may want to consider next time you’re considering purchasing books about gardening, landscaping etc for yourself or as a gift. And if you have a favorite, let us know. We’ll check it out and maybe add it to our list!
Kris Wetherbee “Attracting Birds, Butterflies and other Winged Wonders to Your Backyard”(www.kriswetherbee.com)
Tracy DiSabato-Aust “The Well-Designed Mixed Garden” (www.tracylive.com)
“50 High Impact Low care Garden Plants”
“The Well Tended PerennialGarden”
John Malins “The Pruner’s Handbook”
McGee & Stuckey’s “The Bountiful Container”
Edward Smith “Incredible Vegetables from Self Watering Containers”
Scott Zanon “Desirable Trees for the Midwest”
Janice Doherty “A Calendar Year of Horticultural Therapy”
Manuals:
Michael A. Dirr “Manual of Woody Landscape Plants”
Steven Still “Manual of Herbaceous Ornamental Plants”
Ashton Ritchie / Scotts “Lawns – Your Guide to a beautiful yard”
The OSU Extension “Midwest Home Fruit Production Guide” / Bulletin 940
Recent studies report that about 90% of homeowners do recognize the value of a well maintained lawn and landscape, both aesthetically and as a great investment but they also saw the value environmentally as well as for improved physical and mental health.
Environmentally, trees, shrubs and turf are the best dust mops on earth absorbing an estimated 12 million tons of dust and dirt released into the air each year and they absorb gaseous pollutants converting them back into oxygen – one tree can remove 26 lbs of carbon dioxide and release 13 lbs of oxygen each year enough for a family of four.
A 625 square foot area of lawn can provide enough oxygen for one person for an entire day – on a block of 8 average homes, the front lawns alone can have the cooling effect of 70 tons of air conditioning – proper landscaping can also reduce those air conditioning costs by as much as 50%!
Of course, gardening itself can be a great waist shrinker and weight reducer, helping you to burn a few calories and give you a nice workout. In a medical survey, 47% of all doctors actually use some type of gardening, not for the weight reducer, but as a way to help maintain their own sanity. Hey, gardening can be relaxing, mind clearing, and in the end, very rewarding.
And, your lawn and landscape is a great investment – a well maintained landscape can improve the value of your property by as mush as 15%, and have a cost recovery value of 100-200% at selling time. A good looking lawn and landscape is one of the best ways to entice a potential buyer when you’re trying to sell your home.
So go ahead and do yourself, the environment, and the value of your home a favor – get out and make one of the smartest investments around. Good landscaping – it’ll make a world of difference.
I want to treat my smaller Ash trees to protect against the Emerald Ash Borer. Can I do that now?
Sorry, but it’s too early to be applying systemic insecticides to the trees and shrubs. You need to wait for the ground to be thawed, warming up, and the plants becoming active for the growing season. Let’s wait until April - usually anytime April thru May works great.
Having foliage plants indoors is back! They’re one of the hottest trends in indoor gardening and rightfully so! They look great, having indoor plants helps us to feel better emotionally, and they do something no other interior furnishings can do. They provide us with fresh air! Research at NASA has shown that having 2 medium sized foliage plants every 100 square feet or so, is enough to remove indoor air pollutants like benzene, formaldehyde, and many others I can’t pronounce. NASA put together a list of the best indoor air purifiers, and the interesting thing is, Most of the top air purifiers are also some of the easiest foliage plants to grow indoors:
Dieffenbachia, or Dumb Cane - beautiful wide leaves, some variegated for great indoor color.
Dracaenas - so many different dracaenas to choose from with green leaves, variegated leaves, and some that even look like corn plants.
Ficus - probably one of the most popular grown indoor plants.
Mother in Laws tongue - trust me, anyone can grow this one.
Pothos and Philodendrons - 2 vining plants that have been around forever and truly easy to grow.
Spider Plants - now tell me, who hasn’t had a hanging basket of spider plants at one time in their life?
Spathiphyllum or Peace Lily - definitely a favorite indoor plant with its shiny green foliage, and wonderful white flowers that keep coming on year round.
Rubber Plant - and oldie but goodie and the second best air purifier.
And the top air purifier and easy to grow indoor plant - Palms.
So there you have it - 10 indoor plants that are great to look at, make us feel better, clean the air, and are fairly easy to grow.
I wanted to dormant seed my lawn in mid February, but didn't have a chance. Is it to late to dormant seed?
We’ll still have the freezing and thawing which helps those grass seeds get down into the soil. By the way, for those of you who have dormant seeded the lawn this winter or plan on spring seeding, but yet want to apply a pre emergent herbicide to the lawn, make sure you use the pre emergent for newly seeded lawns. The other pre emergents will stop the weed seeds and your grass seed from growing. So use the one for newly seeded lawns. And yes, it’s too early for you to apply a lawn pre emergent. Be patient!
Growing Avocados From Seed - Well, we’ve looked at ways to recycle our produce by growing more, like growing green onions form the left over bottoms, and growing a pineapple from the left over tops, so here’s another easy plant to grow from the leftover seed - the avocado.
After eating your ripe avocado, the seed needs to be planted right away - or within a day or so. Rinse your seed, and let it dry for a day. If the outer parchment starts to peel, take it off before planting. If not, go ahead and plant as is. You have 2 choices for germinating your avocado seed. One is by poking 3 toothpicks in the side of the seed so it can be perched, halfway in water, on the rim of a glass. Make sure you change the water on a regular basis to keep it clear and replenished with oxygen. The other, the easiest and best way, is to plant the seed in soil-less potting mix. Either way, set the seed with its base (the wider part) down.
Your newly planted seed won’t need direct light to germinate (which could take a month or so), but it will once it starts to grow. Growing in soil less mix, Water about once per week, just making sure the soil doesn’t dry out totally. Once it begins to grow and reaches about 4 inches, cover the remaining exposed seed with the soil-less mix.
Remember avocados require a lot of sunlight, so the sunnier the spot the better. Lack of sufficient sunlight and too warm temperatures will result in tall leggy plants, so look for a really sunny yet cooler area for your avocado to grow.
As a matter of fact, as it begins to grow, occasionally pinch the tops out of your avocado plants, which will force the lower side buds to break out and grow. And if you’re expecting avocados down the road, well, don’t hold your breath. Plants grown from seeds like this rarely set fruit, and if they did, it could take as long as a decade before they start. Just enjoy the thrill of growing this great evergreen tree from a seed.
Why did my concord grapes not all ripen at the same time? We lost quite a few due to uneven ripening.
Some grape selections are more prone to uneven ripening than others, and concord is one of them. Many factors can influence this - extremely warm summers, extended periods of cooler temps, lack of fertilization, competition from weeds and other vegetation, improper pruning, bugs, weed killers - these are some of the factors that can play a role.
If you need professional landscape design and installation, now is the time to call before spring hits and landscaping companies get busy. Remember, proper landscaping is one of the best investments you can make with your money. When the economy turns around, homes with the best landscape go up in value more quickly.
The snow has its benefits - adding moisture to the ground below, acts as a winter insulator, etc, but it can have its drawbacks. When you see deeper snow for longer periods of time, I start thinking about what the voles and rabbits are doing to the plants below the snow line. I start to wonder about snow mold on the turf. I worry about the birds finding food. I wonder if the evergreen branches (deciduous plants as well) will be damaged from the snow weight, or if branches up in the tree’s canopy have been cracked due to the weight of the snow. And when I see all the frozen / clogged gutters and downspouts, I start to worry about when it starts to melt, will it run away, or seep into the basement or walls? We have been lucky this year not to haveany major snowfall. Come on spring! (Visit www.garysullivanonline.comfor tips / ask questions about your frozen gutters, down spouts, etc.)
I heard you talking about planting sisters in the garden. What was that?
It’s called The Three Sisters, and is a form of the original companion planting. Native Americans would plant a clump of corn. Then as the corn was growing, planted beans at the base with squash outside the beans. The corn was support for the beans, the beans fix nitrogen in the soil for the corn and squash, and the squash provided a root protection for the corn and beans. And when eaten together, they form a complete protein. Thus, The Three Sisters.
The golf ball-sized pepper scored the highest among a handful of chile breeds reputed to be among the hottest in the world. Its mean heat topped more than 1.2 million units on the Scoville heat scale, while fruits from some individual plants reached 2 million heat units.
Just in case, how would I know the difference between a termite and an ant?
Good question! Termites have straight antennae, two pairs of wings about the same size and shape, broad waist (like mine is!), and short legs. Ants have elbowed antennae, two pairs of wings with the rear wings smaller than the front wings, a narrow waist (not at all like mine!), and longer legs. If you discover termites, don’t try to control them yourself, call in the professionals.
2 years ago we had late blight on our tomatoes. What do we need to do this year so we don’t get it again?
Late blight in our area is very unusual, but weather conditions were just right and it spread quickly thru many east coast and some central states. Late blight cannot over winter on dead tissue, so make sure that all infected plants are dead, gone, and NOT in the compost pile (which could keep the pathogen alive). Freezing temps will kill it, but I would make sure you clean up any leftover tomato / potato debris in the garden this spring and get rid of it. Don’t treat the soil with any fungicides, and your cages or stakes should be fine. If you want to clean them before use, that’s up to you. Trust me, there is research going on looking for late blight resistant selections!
Valentines Day signals the beginning of the SKUNK MATING SEASON! Skunks are nomadic by nature, but will hang out in dens for brief periods of time. And they hang out by themselves, so beginning mid February, the male skunks begin looking for love in all the right female skunk places. Now, although skunks have a keen sense of smell, they are very nearsighted. Combine that with the fact that the males are on a mission looking for love (they can travel many, many miles), not afraid of the suburban environment including cars), generally travel at night (but will travel in the day during mating season), and again are following their nose (female) and not their sight, now you can understand why so many dead skunks start showing up in the middle of the road! By the way, starting around Valentine’s Day, the smell of skunk usually starts to fill the air - and the reason? Well, if the female skunk doesn’t like the male skunk (or she’s not in the mood), she’ll spray him to make him go away. Even skunks don’t like that smell! So, when you smell skunk in the air, you’ll know that either a male has been hit on the road, or turned down by an unwilling female. Bummer, huh? [Do you know what skunks eat? Although they have been known to get into the garbage, they eat a wide range of things from carrion, wild fruits, seeds, bugs (grubs, earthworms, etc), as well as small rodents such as mice, voles, shrews, chipmunks, and even moles!]
Every year my Columbine get leaf miners. What can I do to get rid of it?
This is a very common problem with Columbine and really is more aesthetic than a problem to the plant. You can try a systemic like Bayer’s or Bonide’s Tree and Shrub Insect Control (apply early spring), but many folks will simply cut off the infested foliage after the plants are finished flowering, and let them re-grow the rest of the season.
I didn’t get a chance to over seed my lawn this fall, but understand dormant seeding in the winter works. Is there a better time to do this?
Dormant seeding can take place anytime during the winter. The object is to take advantage of the freezing and thawing of the soil. Frozen ground cracks open - thawed ground closes up. This process helps work the grass seed into the soil so it’s ready to grow this spring. I like mid to late February for dormant seeding, but if you’d like to do it now, go for it.
Water your indoor plants with warm to very warm water, not cold water! Watch for bug breakouts, and give your plants a nice warm shower. Where? In the shower, of course!
There is an email circulating that says pouring club soda down into an ant’s nest will kill it. Is this true?
Well, that’s a new one on me, but after checking into this email, come to find out, someone used Georgia gardening expert Walter Reeves name and attached it as an endorsement for this ant killing process. Mr. Reeves has let us know that he did not endorse this method, has gotten several reports that club soda actually has no effect on ants, and still recommends ant baits and traps as the most effective means of ant control.
Nope, only warm blooded animals. But the bad news is the winter wind factor, which can be desiccating (drying out plant tissues). And that means plant tissue in leaves, needles, stems and branches.
Not only are bananas really good for you, they're really good for the soil and your plants!
Not only are they one of the best sources of instant and sustained energy, bananas can also help over come or prevent a substantial number of illnesses and conditions. They help regulate high blood pressure, naturally energize the brain, they're a great colon cleanser, help take the edge off periods of depression, help curb heartburn, morning sickness and sometimes good for hangovers, and believe it or not, have been a help for some smokers to kick their smoking habit.
So,when you're finished eating your banana, don't throw out the peel!
You see, the banana benefits just keep going as banana peels are good for your soil and for your plants! By adding banana peels back to the soil, they break down, add organic matter back to the soil, and also add nutrients such as potash and phosphorus. Simply cut up your peels in thin slices and toss them in the garden, or in the landscape mulch, or if you want, actually chop them into the soil. And if you have houseplants, take the peels and slide them down between the soil and the side of the pot.
That way you add organic matter to your houseplants soil, and give them a light boost of banana peel nutrients. As they break down, banana peels don't smell, and don't attract bugs, so they're safe to use with your plants indoors. So, when someone says an apple a day keeps the doctor away, remind them that a banana a day has about 4 times the effect -both for you and for your plants!
When planning your herb garden this year, be sure to plant the best breath fresheners! According to author James Duke, Parsley, Basil and Cilantro are at the top of the list. They all contain the green pigment chlorophyll, which is a powerful breath freshener. In addition, Dill (seeds and leaves), Cardamom (seeds), Anise (seeds) and the Peppermints come next.
Groundhogs can whistle when its alarmed, or when they begin courting in the spring.
Baby groundhogs are called a kit or cub.
Groundhog's usually live about 6-8 years, but Punxsutawney Phil receives a drink of a magical punch every summer during the annual Groundhog Picnic, which gives him 7 more years of life.
2012 AARS (rose) - ‘Sunshine Daydream‘ - The only 2012 winner, this Grandiflora rose shows off with large light yellow flowers (25 petal count – low fragrance) finishing cream yellow produced in fantastic abundance above dark green glossy foliage. Lovely to look at - sure to brighten any garden - excellent disease resistance. 5-51/2’ tall x 4’wide / rounded, bushy plant / cup-like blossoms / all season bloomer. –Chosen by the AARS / www.rose.org [‘Oso Happy Petit Pink’, ‘Butter Me Up’, ‘Ann Hooper’ – 2012 Mini Rose Award of Excellence]
During an ice storm, stay inside and be safe. Once the storm is finished, then its time to make an inspection of the landscape, especially the larger trees and evergreens. DO NOT walk underneath them. Stand back and inspect them looking for broken, hanging, even cracked branches or trunks. Even after the ice has melted, do another inspection. Not sure? Then call in a certified arborist to help visually inspect the trees. Again, stay away and do not walk underneath until you have inspected and cleared them as visually safe.
If smaller younger trees bend over during the ice storm, they should recover; younger evergreens as well. In advance of winter / snow and ice storms, if you have multi-leader upright evergreens such as arborvitae, you can help support those leaders by tying them together mid to 3/5 way up using panty hose around all leaders. Remove in spring.
If your plants suffer severe damages from an ice storm, do be careful cleaning up the debris. Anything where you would need to get on a ladder and or reach way above your head to cut, call in the professionals (certified arborists). More accidents happen after ice storms (cleanup) than during the storm. If your trees receive 40% or more loss, that’s usually when they are removed / past chances of good recovery. Broken or ripped branches need to be taken care of with a new clean cut, whole branch removed, etc to help the damaged areas seal / heal properly and insure future health of the tree.
Trees that were ‘topped’ or pruned incorrectly are generally more susceptible to damages than those not pruned or pruned correctly. If using ‘professional’ help in removing, repairing tree damages, tree care, make sure they are certified, licensed, trained and have full insurance. NOTE: If they do not have insurance and something happens while they are on your property, you will be responsible.
After a drought (along with previous years stresses on trees and evergreens) they could be much more susceptible to snow, ice and wind damages. So be careful, make sure you visually inspect the trees after the storms and later. And as we always recommend, have a certified arborist inspect and help maintain your trees on a regular basis, just like you going to the doctor for regular check-ups. Proper tree care / pruning by certified arborists (if needed) can help keep your trees in good health as well as reduce possible storm damage.
It may be winter outside, but one question I get a lot this time of the year is about dormant seeding the lawn. When is the best time to dormant seed and how do I go about it? Well, dormant seeding is exactly that - sowing grass seed during the dormant time of the year, so that the seed will be in place and ready to grow when the weather breaks in the spring. And typically during this time of the year, the ground goes thru a freezing and thawing process, which helps work the grass seed down into the soil. And as we know, grass seed must have soil contact in order to germinate and grow.
3If you're looking to dormant seed, here are a few tips to follow: -Make sure you use grass seed that is the same or compatible to the grass already growing in your lawn.
-For over seeding an existing lawn, use ½ or less the normal seeding rate. For bare areas, use the regular seeding rate.
-Do not dormant seed when there is snow on the ground. Dormant seeding on top of snow or ice may result in the seed washing away when the snow or ice melts. So, make sure the ground is clear before seeding. It's okay if it snows after you've dormant seeded.
-And although dormant seeding can happen anywhere from late November thru mid March, I prefer to dormant seed mid to late February. The ground is still freezing and thawing, and seed germination conditions are just a few weeks away!
-If you anticipate using a pre emergent herbicide in the lawn this spring to stop crabgrass and other weed seeds from germinating, remember these will also stop your dormant sown grass seed from germinating. So either skip the pre emergent, or use a pre emergent specially labeled for newly seeded lawns. Stops the weed seeds, lets the grass seed grow, and feeds with a starter fertilizer as well. But make sure it is for newly seeded lawns!
Check the trunks of your trees for critter damages. Rabbits, mice and voles will chew on the bark during snowy winter times. Keep the mulch away from the trunks so the mice and voles have no place to hide and chew at the same time. If you see chewing going on, put trunk protectors on to help stop the damages (tree wrap, plastic wraps, tubing, etc.)
Birding enthusiasts share a similar problem – wild birds fly from the backyard feeders into the home’s windows where they’re injured or die. Millions of wild birds are killed each year from colliding with windows. Well, I have found a solution that you can hardly see, but the birds definitely can!
The solution for stopping those birds from flying into your windows is called “WindowAlert”!
WindowAlert is a low-tack decal that is applied to your home or office windows, and they’re available in several cool designs.
So how does the WindowAlert work? Well, the decal contains a component which brilliantly reflects ultraviolet sunlight.
Birds have vision that is up to 12 times better than that of humans, so the ultraviolet light that is reflected from the decal is basically invisible to humans, but glows like a stoplight for the birds. So, the birds “see” the decals and the windows, and avoid flying into the glass.
Now for best results, position your WindowAlerts about every 3-4 square feet on the outside of the window, so the birds will be able to pick up the reflections. The UV coating may fade over time depending on the exposure, so be sure to replace your decals about every 2 years.
Have your garden soil tested. There is still time to make nutrient and pH adjustments before spring plantings. By the way, on average, a soil pH of around 6.5 is generally the best level for most vegetables. And as you're planning you vegetable garden, plan to rotate the location of where the crops are being grown. This helps prevent carryover of diseases and some insect problems.
If you're feeding the birds and feeding with sunflower seeds, don't forget that a build-up of sunflower seed hulls can inhibit plant growth. Just a reminder if you're planning on growing flowers under the bird feeder.
You keep mentioning watering indoor plants with warm vs. cold water. Why? And at what temperature are we supposed to be using? New research at The Ohio State University shows that cold water can actually stop roots from taking up nutrients and water, which of course, will result in smaller leaves, leaves falling off, plant decline and eventual plant death. That was for water below 50 degrees. Use water that is 65 degrees or warmer, especially for those plants that require more frequent watering. From their testing, they actually found that warmer water (close to 90 degrees) could actually help stimulate growth.
Winter is here, and although most houseplants are resting during these winter months, many times the bugs are not! Warmer temperatures indoors can help bug populations explode overnight. So here are a few tips to help keep your indoor plants bug free.
1.) Rinse your plants off on a regular basis. For smaller plants the kitchen sink or utility tub works great. For larger plants, put them in the shower. By rinsing the leaves every 3-4 weeks in luke warm water, you’ll be cleaning off the dust and dislodging any bugs and their eggs from the plant’s leaves. Make sure you rinse tops and bottoms, stems and trunks.
2.) Monitor your plants regularly looking for any insect activity, and react as quickly as possible if they show up.
3.) Insecticidal soaps are safe to use indoors and cover a lot of different insects – but remember, soaps are a contact spray – kills the bug it is sprayed on. So it may take repeated spraying for complete control.
4.) For sucking insects like scale, mites, aphids and whitefly, try using a systemic insecticide which helps control insects from within the plant. You may still need backup sprays of the soaps for complete control.
5.) And for flying pests like whitefly and fungus gnats, one of the best controls is using a sticky stake. These yellow sticky pads are hung within the plant. The adult insects are attracted to the yellow, and stick to the trap. Pretty simple, yet one of the most effective controls for adult whitefly and fungus gnats.
6.) One last note...when watering your houseplants over the winter, a good general rule of thumb is to let the soil dry before watering again. And when you do water, always use luke warm to warm water.
Which would be the absolute easiest tropical plant for them to grow, indoors?
Well, I used to say Spathyphyllum, or Spiderplant or Pothos, or one that’s been around forever, and that’s Sansevieria, commonly known as the Mother in Law’s Tongue (not sure where it got that name). Anyway, these are all tough durable plants that tolerate all kinds of abuse and light conditions. But the new toughest and easiest plant to grow indoors, is ZamioculcasZamiifolia, or commonly known as the ZZ Plant. Glossy green leaves, gets about 3-4 feet tall, bush form, and I think the only way you can kill it, is to either over water it, or try growing it in the dark. Trust me; this one is truly the ZZ’est plant for you to grow indoors.
If you’re looking for some indoor gardening ideas this winter, I’ve got one for you. Why not try growing food scraps, indoors? That’s right…growing left over parts of many of the fruits and vegetables we eat each day. How about this one?
Growing garlic on the windowsill?Simply take a garlic glove or two and plant them in a small pot filled with good potting soil. Plant the cloves point up, then water well, and place the pot in a sunny window sill. Green shoots will start to grow within a week or so…and you can harvest them with scissors and use in your salads or soups. Making mashed potatoes? Purchase organic potatoes, so they haven’t been treated with chemicals to stop them from sprouting. Look for a few good eyes in the potatoes and cut them out. You can use the rest of the potato for cooking. Plant the pieces of potatoes with the eyes in them, in a larger pot, water well, place in a sunny window, and watch your potatoes grow! How about fresh green onions or scallions? Yep…just make sure you purchase green onions or scallions with roots still remaining on the plants. Remove the greens for cooking or salads or whatever you’re using them for, making sure you leave a little green showing above the roots. Place the entire piece, roots first, into the soil with a bit of the green still showing. Water well, place on a sunny windowsill, water as needed, and as the new onions begin to grow, harvest individual green tips with scissors. Now there are more ways to grow things from food scraps. Keep watching and we’ll do a few more in upcoming gardening segments.
Don’t you love foliage plants? Well, they’re back as one of the hottest trends in indoor gardening, and decorating. They look great, make us feel better emotionally, and they do something no other indoor furnishing can do…they provide us with fresh air! Research at NASA has proven that having 2 medium sized foliage plants for every 100 square feet is enough to remove indoor pollutants like benzene and formaldehyde. And the really great thing about the list of indoor air freshening plants from NASA’s research is that most of the top air purifiers are pretty common plants and are also pretty easy to grow indoors. Spathiphyllum, or Peacelily…definitely a favorite of mine with its shiny green foliage, ease of growing indoors, and those wonderful white flowers that produced off and on during the year. Pothos and Philodendrons…here are 2 vining plants that have been around forever and truly are so easy to grow…and propagate to grow more! Mother in Laws Tongue…talk about being around forever…here’s a plant that anyone can grow in just about any location. Ficus…bush or tree form, probably one of the most common indoor plants grown. Dracaenas…and yes, there are so many different dracaenas to chose from…green leaves, yellow leaves, variegated leaves…and again, pretty easy to grow. Rubber plants…an oldie but goodie and the second best air purifier on the list. And the number one air purifier…palms…any and all of the palms.They look great, clean the air, and for the most part, are pretty easy to grow indoors.
It may be winter outside, but one question I get a lot this time of the year is about dormant seeding the lawn. When is the best time to dormant seed and how do I go about it? Dormant seeding is exactly that…sowing grass seed during the dormant time of the year, so that the seed will be in place and ready to grow when the weather breaks in the spring. And typically during this time of the year, the ground goes thru a freezing and thawing process, which helps work the grass seed down into the soil. And as we know, grass seed must have soil contact in order to germinate and grow. If you’re looking to dormant seed, here are a few tips to follow: -Make sure you use grass seed that is the same or compatible to the grass already growing in your lawn. -For over seeding an existing lawn, use ½ or less the normal seeding rate. For bare areas, use the regular seeding rate. -Do not dormant seed when there is snow on the ground. Dormant seeding on top of snow or ice may result in the seed washing away when the snow or ice melts. So, make sure the ground is clear before seeding. It’s okay if it snows after you’ve dormant seeded. -And although dormant seeding can happen anywhere from late November thru mid March, I prefer to dormant seed mid to late February. The ground is still freezing and thawing, and seed germination conditions are just a few weeks away! -If you anticipate using a pre emergent herbicide in the lawn this spring to stop crabgrass and other weed seeds from germinating, remember these will also stop your dormant sown grass seed from germinating. So either skip the pre emergent, or use a pre emergent specially labeled for newly seeded lawns. Stops the weed seeds, lets the grass seed grow, and feeds with a starter fertilizer as well. But make sure it is for newly seeded lawns!
I love elderberries and they grow great around here, make a gorgeous vase shaped bush out in the open, but I love to eat them and share with the birds…..can I take a cutting and sprout it somehow or do I need to try an find a nursery that sells them (haven’t seen any locally)?
Elderberries are one of my favorites as well…my mom still makes jam with them. And as more research comes along, looks like they’re pretty good for you as well. Not many nurseries sell them, but are available mail order. Yes, they can be grown from seed, or by rooted cuttings (soft or hardwood cuttings). Make them short..3-4 inches, with an inch or so stuck in the potting soil…usually root fairly well. Also, sprouts can be transplanted from base of the plant. I have the Black Lace Elderberry in the landscape…great foliage. Does berry, but used more for ornamental value.
Last summer my tomatoes had small black specks maybe 1/8” and less diameter. These were on all the varieties I grow from ‘grape to yellow pears and up to Beefsteaks’ (on over 50% of the crop this year) Black specs on tomatoes…could be a couple things…stinkbugs will cause this on tomatoes (piercing the fruit)…wilt can cause this (was the foliage affected too?)…bacterial speck (weather related).
What’s the deal? Moles have all of a sudden started digging up my yard! There are mole hills everywhere. When do they hibernate?
They don’t - they’re active year-round. And this time of the year those male moles are digging new subsurface highways to cover the females in their territory. I’ve added our tip sheet on moles to the weekly success tip for your garden, so keep reading.
Can you refresh my memory on when to prune flowering shrubs?
Although there are exceptions to the rule, and assuming you want to save the flowers, prune spring flowering shrubs after they finish flowering, and prune summer flowering shrubs in the spring. If flowers are not an issue, and rejuvenation of the shrub is most important, then prune them in the spring.
Is there an easy fix to keeping squirrels away from our bird feeders?
I’m not sure there is an “easy fix”, but lots of folks are having decent success using a squirrel repellent such as Squirrel Stopper and spraying the feeder. It’s a combo of herbal scents, including cinnamon and rosemary. To be successful, keep re-freshening the spray as needed, and remember, when critters are in survival mode, they’ll eat no matter what the smell. (Note: Of course, there are many “squirrel proof” feeders available, as well as using slick poles for feeder mounting, greasing the poles, using squirrel baffles, feeding the squirrels separate from the birds, using safflower seed, etc, etc.)
It’s called “nepetalactone” which has a hallucinogenic effect on cats, and catnip has it. Cats will react differently to it, including neutered or non-neutered cats – lions, pumas and leopards like it. Cats’ getting a buzz from this is harmless, and non-addictive, so don’t worry about your cat becoming a catnip junkie.
I have a bag of weed and feed. Is it okay to use this for our last lawn feeding?
Nope. It’s too late for weed control, so although the fertilizer formula is good, you’re wasting the weed killer. Save it in a dry place for next year. By the way, let’s get that final feeding on by this weekend. And remember, as long as the grass is growing, you need to keep mowing! (PS…In the future, let’s switch to feeding the lawn with lawn food, and spot treating the weeds as needed with a water soluble fertilizer.)
I have many leaves from a Southern magnolia. Can these big things be composted?
They can, but just like oak leaves or pine needles or twigs and branches, they are slow to break down. So, grind them up before you put them in the compost pile. Some folks will actually have a separate pile for the ‘slower’ composting materials.
We would like to go with a live evergreen (with roots) this year for Christmas. Any tips on getting this plant to live?
Yes we do! Choosing to have a ‘live’ Christmas tree serves a dual purpose. Not only is it your tree indoors during the Holidays, it eventually becomes a part of your landscape for many more years to come! Here’s how to help make your decision to chose a ‘live’ Christmas tree successful, by following our “2, 7 to10, 2, Plant it” routine! [ NOTE: “Live” (balled & burlapped / container grown trees aren’t quite as easy as dealing with real ‘cut’ trees, thanks to the weight of the root ball, and moving it in and out of the house. So, be prepared, by having the proper equipment and labor in making the needed moves. You’ll also need a waterproof tub large enough to handle the root ball of the tree (or saucer large enough to fit under the bottom of a ‘potted’ live tree), mulch to place around the root ball, and WiltStop to spray the tree.]
Following the “2, 7 to 10, 2, then Plant It! Routine”: (2 days in an unheated garage, 7 to 10 days maximum in the house, 2 days in an unheated garage, and plant it!)
Once the live tree arrives at home: [2 DAYS] -Begin the “routine” by moving the balled & burlapped / potted tree into the unheated garage for 2 days. This allows the tree to adjust to the warmer temperatures once indoors. Spray the tree with WiltStop to help minimize moisture loss and needle drop. (If the tree is not ready to begin the “routine”, place it in a protected spot next to the house, semi-shady, and keep the root ball moistened until you’re ready to begin.)
Moving the live tree Indoors: [7-10 DAYS] -After the 2 day acclimation period in the unheated garage, it’s time to move the tree indoors. -Be sure to locate your tree in the coolest part of the room, away from sources of heat, or constant air flow. In front of sunny picture windows is not the best location! -Once inside the home, place the tree in a large galvanized or plastic tub. Fill around and on top of the root ball with mulch. Water the root ball and mulch to moisten thoroughly. For potted trees, place a heavy duty saucer or water tight container under the pot to collect water that may flow out of the pot. Water your tree as often as needed to keep the roots and mulch moist, but not soggy. -Miniature lights are the best choice for decorating live Christmas trees, as they create less heat. Check light strands for safety, and turn them off when the tree is unattended. -Leave the tree indoors for 7 to 10 days maximum, NO MORE.
Moving the live tree back outside: [2 DAYS] -After being indoors for 10 day maximum, move the tree back into the unheated garage for another 2 days to readjust to the outside temperatures. Check the weather forecast – you want to plant your tree as soon as possible after the 2 days in the unheated garage. -DON’T WAIT – PLANT IT!
You have the options of pre-digging the hole earlier in the month (in case the ground is frozen after the holidays), covering the planting area with a thick layer of leaves or mulch to keep the ground from freezing, and then digging your hole after the final 2 days in the unheated garage, or Just wait and dig the hole when the tree is ready to be planted, no matter what the weather is like! (Trust us, rarely is the ground frozen solid after the Holidays in our area.) Whichever you chose, don’t wait – plant it! -Plant your live tree following our “Planting and Watering Guide”. Be sure to water in well after planting, and definitely a few more times throughout the winter and early spring – very important for the success of the tree.
Here are tips for many of the plants grown for the holiday season:
Cyclamens – Blossoms of the cyclamen twist and turn like butterfly wings, and are supported by the silvery marbled coloring of the cyclamen foliage. You’ll find cyclamen blossoms in many colors, ranging from lavender, rose, maroon, red and white. When growing cyclamen, place them in a well lit area, away from drafts of heat and cold, keep that soil evenly moist, and be sure to keep them in cooler temperatures (65 degrees) so they’ll keep flowering all winter long.
Norfolk Island Pine – Actually a native of Norfolk Island which is near Australia in the South Pacific, in its native habitat, grows as high as 200 feet! But, when grown in a container – indoors, stay smaller and really make a nice houseplant that can easily be decorated for the holiday season. Norfolk Island pines need bright light, but nothing direct – love the cooler temperatures – and enjoy even watering, so water it well, let it get close to dry (not totally dry), and water again. Otherwise, this tropical plant is one of the easiest plants to grow indoors. Don’t use ornaments or lights that may be too heavy for the stems. But otherwise, this cool looking easy to grow indoor pine should be around for you to decorate for many holidays to come.
African Violets – Another easy one to grow and get to flower -place them in a bright window with no direct sunlight – cool temps – and water when the soil dries out, keeping the water off the foliage. Feed monthly and these beauties will flower off and all year long.
Rosemary – a very popular herb, Rosemary is available at Christmas typically shaped like small Christmas trees. The keys for growing rosemary indoors – very sunny bright location, good air flow, and let it get close to dry before watering.
Poinsettia – the traditional indoor plant for the holiday season. Place it in a well lit area, with the temps between 60 and 70 degrees, and away from hot or cold drafts. Keep the soil evenly moist – not soggy wet – evenly moist. Water thoroughly when the soil surface feels dry. Always take it out of the decorative sleeve when watering, and never let water sit in the sleeve on in the saucer below. No need to feed them now, but feel free to feed monthly after the holiday season. (Research conducted at The Ohio State University has proven the old theory about poinsettias being deathly poisonous to humans is false. And although the same has been suggested for most home pets, if you’re uncomfortable with it, place your poinsettias out of your pet’s reach.)
And one of the most popular holiday flowers next to the poinsettia – the Christmas Cactus. Although it’s not a true cactus, these easy to care for plants can really put on a consistent show holiday after holiday. Available in many colors, Christmas Cactus loves a bright location indoors (no direct sun please), loves well drained soils, yet needs watering on a regular basis – so water when the top half of the soil feels dry. Again, cooler temperatures indoors will help these flowers last longer thru the holiday season. If you’ve had trouble getting your Christmas Cactus to flower each year, remember two things – shorter days (so limit their daylight hours to 10) and cool night-time temperatures (50 – 55 degrees) in the fall – those two factors will help set the flower buds for the holiday season. And if yours hasn’t set buds yet, it’s not too late to try.
Critter Damages: As we start to look towards the winter season, critters start to look at our landscape plants as a source of food. So here are a couple tips to help prevent winter critter damages: -Keep the mulch around trees and shrubs pulled away from the base of the plant. It’s better for the plant, and doesn’t allow a place for field mice and voles to hide while chewing on the bark. -Use trunk protectors; make sure the trunk protectors touch the soil and then extend up 30-36 inches or to the bottom branches. This will help protect from chewing on the bark, as well as buck deer rubbing on the trunks. -Use physical barriers to keep critters away. Chicken wire works great, but even a barrier of nylon bird netting can help deter rabbits and deer from munching on your prized plants.
-And of course, give the critter repellents a try. There are many on the market today; I’ve been using and recommending DeerScram, RabbitScram, Liquid Fence, and Repels All for years. And all guarantee results. I think the key to using repellents is to make sure they’re used at recommended rates, re-applied as needed, and mix it up. Use one for a while, and then use another – that way the critters don’t get used to one particular repellent. And don’t forget Milorganite; all natural fertilizer for a nice slow feeding, yet works great at repelling deer. -There’s even a mouse repellent called Mouse Magic. Helps repel mice from small sheds, stored vehicles and boats, and is getting great reviews from those using it. Repelling mice; who would have thought? -One last note: physical barriers are pretty much sure cures. Repellents work, and many are guaranteed to work – but when critters are starving, sometimes they will go thru the repellent to eat and stay alive.
When can I spray my evergreens with ‘WiltStop’ for winter protection?
You’re good to go at this stage. Read the label for restrictions not only for temperatures, but for plants as well. Spraying as late in the season as you can for some evergreens is suggested. And yes, it can turn your Blue Spruce green, so do not use on Blue Spruce!
I just received 10 mixed Arbor Day trees in the mail! What should I do at this stage?
I would pot them up in 1 gallon pots, water in well, place them in an unheated garage or shed for the winter (to keep them dormant), water once a month, and then bring them back outside in March as the weather begins to warm. Personally, I like to grow those seedlings in a container for a year or so to establish a nice root system, and get some size to the plant before planting in the ground. But that’s up to you. If you want to plant in spring, go right ahead. Just protect them from critters and getting stepped on.
As the gardening season comes to an end, it’s time to tuck away those climbing, hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora roses for the winter. Why wait so long to do this?
1.) We want the temperatures to be consistently colder so the roses are definitely shutting down for the winter.
2.) We prefer the ground to be close to freezing or less than 40 degrees if possible.
So, it may be late December before the time is ‘right’ for putting those roses to bed (unless you have to get it done sooner)! By the way, if it’s been a dry fall, make sure you water your roses. Here are some general steps to follow for putting roses to bed for the winter:
1.) Its okay to cut your hybrid tea, floribunda, and grandiflora roses back a bit if needed (anywhere from 18-36 inches or so in height), only to make them easier to work with or to prevent long branches from whipping in the winter winds. We’ll do the major pruning next spring, usually around early to mid April. Climbing roses will not be pruned at this time, unless some of the canes have become excessively long and may be damaged in winter winds. You may also consider tying the canes together to prevent whipping. Again, any regular pruning needed will be done next spring.
2.) Rake out all debris and fallen leaves from around the base of the plant. Spray the rose canes and surrounding soil surface with a lime sulfur spray. If too cold for a liquid spray, use a dustible fungicide. As added protection for the rose canes, especially the climbers, feel free to spray the canes with an anti-transpirant such as Bonide’s Wilt Stop or WiltPruf to help seal moisture into the canes during the winter.
3.) Put the roses to bed by mound mulching each plant about 12 inches of so, up from the ground, with the center of the rose in the center of the mound. Rose collars are very helpful in making this process a bit easier. Several mulches can be used, including finely ground leaves, compost, pine needles, or one of the many bark mulches. Pinebark (pinefines) is highly recommended. Mounding mulch helps to protect the rose graft and the lower 8-12 inches of the rose canes from possible winter damage. If you have a rose bed containing multiple roses, it may be easier to consider using a fencing material around the bed, and then fill the entire fenced in area with your mulch. [We do not recommend using rose cones.] For added protection, climbing roses may be mound mulched, sprayed with Wilt Stop, as well as wrapped with burlap. In some cases, the entire canes can be laid on the ground and mulched over for the winter.
4.) For landscape or shrub roses, Knockout roses included, follow the above mentioned clean up around each rose (no pruning unless there are long whipping branches), and then treat with the fungicide. With our ‘normal’ winters, they shouldn’t require the mound mulching, but if you’d like to add the winter ‘mound mulching’ protection, they won’t complain (especially if your roses are in a very exposed or harsh winter climate). But, again, not necessary. A good soil surface mulching will be just fine, again, after the soil has reached or dropped below 40 degrees. Note: Occasionally, there will times where this is not possible or feasible, so we simply suggest you wait as long as you can (to let them shut down) before giving your roses their final cleanup and winter mulching.
5.) Over wintering ‘Tree Roses” – Hopefully your tree rose is growing in a container which will make this tip a breeze. Leave the tree rose outside until it has totally gone dormant and the temperatures are consistently cold (mid December or later). Move the potted tree rose into an unheated garage, water, and water about once each month. You can also spray with Wilt Stop just before taking it into the garage.
Next March, move it back outside (still dormant) to begin re-growing as roses normally would. If the tree rose is growing in the ground, you have 2 options for winter care. Either way, spray it with Wilt Stop first.
1.) Take a sharp spade (10-12 inches away from the trunk) and dig about ½ way around the plant, cutting the roots. Gently pry up on the cut root side and lay the rose on to its side (parallel with the ground). Cover the entire plant and root ball with mulch, finely ground leaves / compost, etc.
2.) Leaving the tree rose upright, circle the entire plant with a cage of chicken wire. Drive one stake in the ground to hold the cage upright and in place. Fill the cage with mulch; finely ground leaves / compost, even straw will work. You can even take it one step further and wrap the filled wire column with burlap and secure it with twine. Be sure to uncover your tree rose in the spring as you would your regularly mulched roses.
All of a sudden I have noticed my lawn has turned orange - it comes off on my shoes! What is this?
Sounds like rust (get a sample to the garden stores for someone to see). If it is, make sure you feed the lawn this month, collect your clippings when you mow from here on to the end of the season, and if really bad, you may want to treat it with a lawn fungicide (listed for rust) at least two times on 10-14 day intervals.
